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Gower Beaches
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Sheltered beneath limestone cliffs and pine clad slopes, Caswell Bay is one of Gower's most picturesque beaches. Just a few minutes drive from Swansea , with ample car parking facilities, public toilets and numerous seaside shops and cafes, Caswell is also one of the most popular and family orientated beaches on the peninsula.
Caswell takes its name from the stream that meanders down Caswell valley and out and along the beach to the sea. The stream travels underground for some distance, giving rise to curious bubbling pools along certain stretches of the bay.
At low tide, the eastern side of Caswell Bay is by far the more interesting aspect of the beach to explore - with a shallow cave and some of Gower's more spectacular geology to investigate. It is also along this stretch where starfish can sometimes be found in abundance amongst the many rock pools which form here. An eye should be kept on the incoming tide, howeve, as this part of the bay is cut off during certain tidal conditions.
The larger parts of Caswell Bay - the middle and western sections of the beach - offer good batheing conditions and excellent flat sands for relaxing in the sun or for children to play and build sand castles.
Further attractions, leading from the bay, include a fine cliff walk eastwards towards Langland and Mumbles, a rougher track that spreads westwards to Brandy Cove, Pwlldu Bay and beyond and walks through the well maintained Bishop's Wood. For those with an interest in history, Red(ley) Cliff, on the western end of Caswell Bay , has the remains of an Iron Age earthwork at its summit.

Brandy Cove, located half a mile west of Caswell Bay , is probably Gower's most infamous beach and is steeped in history and legend. The beach itself is very small, with sandy stretches only at low tide and possesses a good example of an exposed Pleistocene raised beach - evidence that the sea level here was once thirty feet higher than it is today. The beach gets its name from the days when smuggling was rife on the Gower Peninsula and the sands were used to land illicit cargo of tobacco and alcohol.
Perhaps less well known than its history of smuggling are the two stories of the supernatural connected with the beach. The first concerns a certain old woman who went by the name "Old Moll". "Old Moll" was said to have made her home in one of Brandy Coves' caves, but spent much of her time wandering through the many small villages and farms on the Gower Peninsula . A later tale of the supernatural connected with Brandy Cove has a chilling link with a real life murder that took place on or near the beach during the winter of 1919. Both tales can be found in the ghosts and Legends section of this website.

Pwlldu is one of Gower's more remote and sheltered beaches. Protected from rough currents by the curious rock formation, the Needles, at the western end of the bay, Pwlldu possesses one of the safest bathing environments on the peninsula. That said, its maritime history records as heavy a toll of shipwrecks and nautical disasters as any of Gower's more notoriously treacherous stretches of coastline.
One wreck in particular is worth mentioning in detail here. The Caesar, wrecked here on November 28th 1760 , had such and impact on the area that both the name of the ship and the tragic fate of it's crew are recorded on Ordnance Survey and other detailed maps of the area for posterity.
During the mid 18th Century, it was not uncommon for the Navy to scour Gower and other rural communities around the British coast with the aim of press ganging labourers, farm workers and quarry men into its service - a practice that the Government actually encouraged as a secure method of recruiting men into the naval forces. This involved the virtual legal kidnapping of men by officers of the Navy. These poor souls would then be secured by battening them below deck of the naval ship, ready to be taken off to war. The Caesar was an Admiralty tender ship on such a mission, en route from Bristol to Plymouth when rough sea
conditions on the channel drove it against the headland of Pwlldu. Although a few officers of the ship escaped with their lives, around 90 press ganged men all imprisoned below deck on the ship, were not so lucky.
The following morning, news of the incident spread through Pwlldu, Bishopston and Pennard, attracting hundreds of villagers to the spot, now known as Caesar's Hole, in the hope of salvaging some precious cargo from the wreck. Despite their rather mercenary reason for attending the wreck, the villagers did drag the wretched bodies of the press ganged men from the ship's hold to give them a Christian funeral in the nearest gully where the soil had enough depth to commit such a large-scale burial. The communal grave was then marked with a ceremonial circle of limestone rocks, which remains to this day. The site is today known as Grave's End.
Grave's End is reputed to possess an unwelcoming atmosphere, as though it were haunted by the awful fate of the poor men who, having first lost their freedom, then lost their lives in the most dreadful of circumstances. The area is not often visited, it's cheerless ambience and its difficulty of access both vying for responsibility for this being one of the most lonely spots on the Gower Peninsula .

Foxhole Bay is a small and secluded stretch of sandy beach at the base of Pennard Cliffs. A steep but perfectly navigable footpath leads down to the bay, which can often be otherwise deserted even on the hottest of summer afternoons. Whilst the beach has no facilities, there is a shop and small cafe at the top of the cliffs in which to refresh yourself after the long climb back up to the car park/bus stop.
Fox Hole Bay has become infamous lately for its rapidly depleting sand, which is believed by many to be the result of the continued heavy sand dredging taking place off the Gower coast. The beach only exists at low tidal conditions.

Pobbles is a secluded bay nuzzling the coastland to the immediate east of Three Cliffs Bay and actually joined to that beach at low tide.
Accessed via a twenty or so minute walk west along the cliff path from the car park at Pennard Cliffs (where there is also a shop and café), the route down to the beach itself is not too difficult though there is a rough scramble down the final descent to the sands themselves.
Beautiful sand, some dunes, the triple pointed rock face of Three Cliffs itself, as well as one of the most spectacular views over Gower from the headland above the bay, all make Pobbles one of Gower's finer beaches. Because of the particularly treacherous tidal currents, however, batheing must not be attempted here.
In 1961, the coastline around here and Three Cliffs was temporarily appropriated by Hollywood to shoot scenes for 'The Inspector' (titled 'Julia' for American audiences). A Twentieth Century Fox production, the films had a budget of £2,000,000 and starred Stephen Boyd, Dolores Hart and Donald Pleasance. Shooting on the beach and along its coast (where the Milford Haven trawler 'Agnes-Allen' doubled for a gun boat) took two weeks during which huge palm trees decorated the bay to give the impression that Gower was, in fact, Palestine! A wooden fort was also constructed on the dunes of Three Cliffs to hide the distant houses of Penmaen from the camera. The plot of 'The Inspector' involved an Auschwitz survivor (Dolores Hart) seeking emigration to Palestine . The man to whom she turns to for aid, however, is in fact a white slave dealer who plans to ship her to some ex-Nazis in South America . The scenes featuring Gower appear towards the close of this two hour film and in its end credit sequence. The feature, directed by Philip Dunne, opened on October 1962 to poor reviews and even poorer audiences. Its run at Swansea 's Carlton cinema (now Waterstone's Bookshop), despite being supported by a Kirk Douglas film, was a mere six days.

One of Gower's more famous treasures, Three Cliffs Bay is one of the most photographed places on the peninsula. The cliffs themselves are very popular with climbers and are composed of three linked and pointed cliff faces, their limestone strata punctured by a single tunneled archway that leads to the quiet Pobbles Beach .
At low tide this beach is indistinguishable from that of Three Cliffs Bay but as the sea heads inland the cliffs soon separate the two from one another. At very low waters it is possible to walk along the sands of Pobbles Beach , Three Cliffs Bay , Tor Bay and Oxwich Bay without a break.
A word of caution to those visiting either Three Cliffs Bay or Pobbles Bay - do not bathe in the waters here! The surf along this stretch of coast can be extremely treacherous as the Pennard Pill rushes out into the sea here and causes dangerous, swirling tides.

Sandwiched between the sands of Oxwich and Three Cliffs, Tor Bay is best reached via a one mile footpath from the village of Penmaen . From the large limekiln on the cliff top overlooking the bay, a track then leads down a rather steep slope onto the beach itself.
The most notable feature of Tor Bay is Great Tor, an immense rock face of limestone dividing the beach from Three Cliffs Bay at high tide. This crag is extrememly popular amongst rock climbers, who can often be seen scrambling up the vertical rock walls, securing themselves with ropes as the slowly progress to the summit.

Oxwich Bay is the second largest beach on the Gower Peninsula (Rhossili taking the accolade of being the first) and is one of the most popular during summer months. In 1911, the beach gained fame for hosting the first aeroplane flight in Wales , accomplished by Mr E. Sutton in his Bleriot Monoplane.
In March 1940, further attention was rained upon the bay with the discovery of what was, at that time, believed to be the skeleton of a Pterodactyl amongst the local sand dunes. This later turned out to be the remains of a crocodile, probably buried here by a touring circus that used to visit the area.
Oxwich Bay is backed by a combination of sand dunes, salt marsh, woodland and cliffs, themselves backed by the imposing Old Red Sandstone hill of Cefn Bryn - the backbone of Gower.
The area is a naturalist's haven, containing a variety of flora and fauna rarely found in the U.K. Unfortunately, one species was completely eradicated by the wreck of an oil tanker in 1945, its spillage ridding the area entirely of the cockles that used to be gathered daily from the shore. For more information on the natural history of Oxwich, there is an excellent Information Centre located at the rear of the bay's main car park.

Also known as 'The Sands,' Slade Bay is a small beach with lots of firm sand and some interesting rocks. The bay can be reached from the village of Slade, via a quarter of an hour walk down past fields (once infamous as being the hunting ground of the legendary Spring-Heeled Jack) or via a coastal path from Horton Beach.
The moderate difficulty of access to Slade Bay made this beach ideal for smuggling in years gone by, when casks of brandy or illicit supplies of tobacco would often be secretly unloaded here and distributed for local sale.
In his excellent book on the peninsula - 'The Gower Coast,' George Edmunds recounts a scene from Slade Bay as described by Fisheries Officer and Lloyds Agent Donald le Cronier Chapman. The report was not written during the 18 th or 19 th Centuries but on a dusky evening in March 1940. However, it does offer a great insight into both the rural nature of this beach and also of the village locals of the time.
"Twenty odd casks came ashore on the Gower, seven of which were in my district as Lloyds Agent West Gower. Two came in at Slade Cliff and with horses, chains and men we hauled them up. When on the brink the chains slipped and the casks burst on the shingle. Men drank the stout from jam jars and flagons found hurriedly on the beach. When they could drink no more P.C. Mabbet and I as coastguard spilled the residue."
The drunken men were, apparently, laid out on the beach for hours, too inebriated to make their way home to their beds for the night.

At the base of Horton, amongst the sands of the eastern edge of Port Eynon Bay , can be found Horton and 'The Burrows' - a series of sand dunes that during WW2 were fenced off with barbed wire when they were mined by the British Army. Although most of these mines have now been removed, some are still brought to light on occasions so caution should be exercised by anyone visiting this region of the bay.
During WW2, Horton villagers watched in awe as a German Heinkel bomber, returning from a bombing raid over Swansea , was hit by anti-aircraft fire and crashed in flames into the Bristol Channel here. The crew did not survive the hit.
Slightly later, a camp was established nearby for U.S. soldiers. Proving popular amongst the village, especially by the children, most of the U.S. men stationed here sadly lost their lives on the beach of Normandy .
On the sands at the foot of Horton, Hoar Well provided the villager's water supply into the second half of the twentieth Century and may hold a surviving clue as to the origins of Horton's name. Near here, the modern Lifeboat Station can also be found.

Taking its name from the Welsh prince Einon ap Owain Hywel Dda, who invaded Gower in 970 a.d., Port Eynon was a thriving and bustling village in the 19th Century, offering a good living to Oyster fishermen, mariners, and quarry men. Today, this achingly picturesque seaside village is far quieter, its population having plunged from around 240 in 1850 to its current level of around 140. Of course, the hundreds of campers who holiday here each summer disguise the usual calm that settles over the village for the majority of the year.
Port Eynon is currently the centre of a fierce controversy between the environmental activists and the sand dredging companies that lift thousands of tons of sand from the Bristol Channel each year. Suffering like no other beach on the peninsula, Port Eynon's once wide stretch of sandy bay has now receded drastically behind newly revealed rocky outcrops that had hitherto not been exposed here since prehistoric times.
One part of the bay that has always been rocky is Sedges Bank, located on the far right of the bay, past the ancient Salthouse ruins. Protected by the Glamorgan Wildlife Trust, all 86 acres of the site have been a nature reserve since 1966. An important habitat for all seashore life, Sedges Bank is the only remnant of the sand bar that once enclosed a now extinct salt marsh at Port Eynon.
An interesting sight from here are the two orange buoys that can be seen floating in the sea towards the centre of the bay. These mark the undersea remains of the pleasure cruiser "Prince Ivanhoe", which was wrecked here in 1981. All of its passengers were brought safely to land during the incident.
Port Eynon is Gower's most tourist orientated beaches with the largest collection of seaside shops on the peninsula.

From the field at Pitton, at the top of Mewslade Valley , used as a car park (a fee is payable via an Honesty Box), a delightful walk leads down through some very picturesque countryside (partially National Trust owned and a SSSI) to one of Gower's smallest beaches.
The quarry on the western side of the valley is the haunt of several species of bird of prey, which can often be seen hovering overhead as they seek out the small mammals on which they feed. In the 19th Century, the skeleton remains of half a dozen humans were found in a cleft in one of the quarry walls.
This is a very rocky terrain and the cliffs here are peppered with small to moderate sized caves.
There is a bit of a clamber involved as the bottom of Mewslade Valley is reached and the floor opens up to the sand and the sea. Once this narrow tract of pebble and wet rock is negotiated, however, the sand is smooth and interspersed by some incredible geology.
Marine wildlife can be found in abundance on Mewslade Bay , with lichen and barnacles and other shellfish clinging to most rock surfaces here and the numerous rockpools are alive with the usual incumbent wildlife.
The view west to Worm's Head is extremely impressive and the seventy metre high cliff face of Thurba Head is the main focal point to the east of the bay.
Mewslade Bay is one of Gower's real hidden charms - a perfect beach for those wanting something a little more from a bay than simply sunbathing.

Fall Bay is a long, shallow beach nestled in the coastline to the east of Worm's Head. The beach can be reached directly from the village of Rhossili via footpaths across several fields or, for a longer and MORE awe-inspiring walk, by following the cliff path from Rhossili, past Worm's Head and round the headland - keeping the dry stone wall directly to your left.
The beach has an expansive Pleistocene raised beach as well as evidencing some great fossil displays. Above the beach, an example of an old limestone kiln can be found just below the foot style which leads to Middleton.

Sculpted by the full might of the rough Atlantic Ocean, Rhossili Bay is the spectacle of the Gower Peninsula . The three mile arc of its flat, sandy beach is disturbed only by the scattered skeletons of ancient shipwrecks and, by night, the reputed ghost of a crazed horse-rider - desperately searching the beach for the washed up treasure from a sunken ship.
More ghosts are said to haunt the lonely-looking house situated at the foot of Rhossili Downs (Gower's highest point at 193 metres), nearly half way along the bay. This was the old Rhossili Rectory, but is now a National Trust property that is leased to holiday-makers (see the Gower Information Centre's 'Gower Ghosts - Supernatural Swansea' Information Pack to read more details on all of Rhossili's ghostly goings on).
Whilst the views over what is arguably Britain 's most beautiful beach are indeed magnificent, care must always be taken when viewing the bay from Rhossili Cliffs as fatalities occur here on a yearly basis. The finest vantage point is right opposite the (rather pricey) car park anyway and this part of the cliffs are sensibly fenced so is the ideal spot for family's with young children to take in the fine views.
From here, the bare ribs of the ' Helvetia ' - an oak barque wrecked here in 1887 - can be clearly seen. The 'Vennerne,' another shipwreck (wrecked here in 1894), whose metal carcass continues to survive on the beach, lies at the base of Rhossili Cliffs and can be easily reached along the sands at low tide.
Rhossili Bay is framed within the curiously named tidal islets of Worm's Head and Burry Holmes. Their titles originate from the Viking words "Wurme" meaning "Serpent" and "holmr" meaning "Island." These recall the time in 986 when the Viking Dragon ships pulled into Rhossili Bay and set in motion a trail of destruction and marauding leading to the slaughter of countless Llangennith villages and the annihilation of their priory. The Viking King, Sweyne Forkbeardm is said to be buried atop Rhossili Downs, marked by the twin stone tombs known today as the Sweyne Howes.
Given the steep steps down to hossili Bay from the village, access to the beach is limited to those with the stamina to manage the quite daunting return trek up the side of the Downs to the full height of Rhossili Cliffs (where the village resides). For this reason, despite its enticing beauty, the beach is seldom overly packed and, during colder months, it is not unusual for visitors to have the beach entirely to themselves.
Rhossili has numerous shops, a National trust Information centre, cafes and a pub/restaurant. Many of the shops, however, are closed off season.
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The northern aspect of Rhossili Bay 's immense tableau of beach is popularly known as the Llangennith Sands and is characterised by both its high-backed dunes and the numerous surfers who decorate the sea here no matter the weather conditions.
Best reached via Hill End, where a wooden slat path leads from the car park, through the dunes, to the bay, the Llangennith Sands is a gloriously wild payground. A flurry of colourful kites and windsails billowing in the Atlantic driven wind lend an excitement to the atmosphere of the beach, seducing even the most unsporty of visitors to take a deep inhalation of the salt-laden air and pick up their pace along the sands and get their circulation pumping in a brisker fashion.
In colder seasons, forbidding the removal of shoes and socks, Dile's Lake - an inconsiderable stream meandering down from the foot of Rhossili Downs and dissecting the beach as it heads for the Atlantic Ocean , must be negotiated if the quiet end of Llangennith Sands is desired. Even the most careful tiptoeing from stone to stone across these crystalline waters, however, will seldom be rewarded with perfectly dry feet by the time the traverse is complete.
At low tide, the remains of the shipwreck 'The City of Bristol' can be seen protruding from the waves between Dile's Lake and the distant tidal islet of Burry Holmes.

To the immediate north of thetidal islet of Burry Holmes, Llangennith, lays a tiny bay of firm, clean sand. Not even given a name on Ordnance Survey maps, this bay is, however, a very respectable and beautiful stretch of beach and more than rewards those who make the effort to take the trek across sand and cliff from either Llangennith or Broughton to reach it. As well as its picturesque quality, the stretch of rock from here to Broughton (Spaniard Rocks) became famous in the past for the amount of Spanish gold coins found from some long forgotten shipwreck.
Burry Homes itself derives its name from the Viking word "holmr." The islet, cut off from the mainland for five hours at high tide, marks the northern end of Rhossili Bay and has a rich and varied history. Mesolithic flints have been found here as well as a pin dating as far back as the Bronze Age. At the western end of the islet once stood a five acre fort and this site is still separated from the other 10.25 acres of land by a double rampart and wide ditch. Later, during the Middle Ages, a monastery was constructed on the landward end of the islet and remains of this building are easily identified today.
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Blue Pool Bay is one of Gower's most charming bays. There are no roads or lanes leading to this beach and its location and very sheltered position at the base of u-shaped cliffs is such that only those who know about its existence, and are not afraid of a good walk, ever frequent the clean sands here. It is not a beach that is usually just stumbled upon and the average tourist will usually settle for the larger, more easily accessed neighbouring beach of Broughton . For that reason, Blue Pool is also one of Gower's quieter bays.
At low tide, the beach is best accessed from Broughton Bay along the shoreline. As the tide comes in, however, Blue Pool Bay is cut off from Broughton, making this approach impossible. At these times, a walk southwards along the cliffs at Broughton will lead to a beautiful walk along cliff top dunes. By following this path, the walker will eventually reach Burry Holmes and Llangennith Sands. However, if a careful watch is kept to the seaward view, well before these two land marks are reached, a wide stretch of sand will be noticed clinging to the foot of the cliffs. Descending the well-used slope to the northerly edge of the beach will soon bring the large rock pool, which gives this bay its name, into view.
Blue Pool itself is an immense rock pool which legend has held is bottomless. Whilst this is obviously not the case, the depth of the rock pool has been measured at between four and eight metres, depending on tidal and weather conditions. This depth of water has made the rock pool popular for diving.
The cliffs around Blue Pool Bay has an interest formation known as the Three Chimneys. Here is located a small bone cave known as Culver Hole (which is not to be mistaken for the Port Eynon/Overton cave of the same name). This cave has yielded numerous prehistoric finds.
Near Three Chimneys, gold doubloons from a Portugese shipwreck, were discovered in 1770 and again in 1840. The cliffs here still evidence the blasting they received as prospectors wondered whether more coins were hidden within their deep crevices.

Pronounced Bruffton, this quite large and very sandy bay is very popular with caravan enthusiasts - there being two caravan parks situated at each end of the beach. The two parks, however, are not directly linked by road, the site at the southern end being accessible by road only from Llangennith, whilst the park at the northern end of the bay can only be reached by car from road leading from Llanmadoc.
In past ages, the bay used to be regularly visited by sailing vessels up to 700 tons. These were able to anchor here up until around the 1850's, after which the sand of the Burry Estuary silted the bay too heavily to afford their traffic.
The sands here can shift quite drastically with the tides, especially after a gale. At low tides, especially after such conditions as just mentioned, many a rewarding find had been discovered by walking this stretch of beach - more especially in the past, perhaps, but historians and archeologists all insist that this area still has a lot of treasure to disclose to the lucky beachcomber. Not so long ago, the handle of a 17th Century sword was discovered, protruding from the sands like King Arthur's Excalibur itself. The handle had become separated from the blade itself but, remarkably, this also was found, and by the same man, a few days later whilst patrolling the same stretch of bay.
At the northern end of the bay, set high amongst the cliff, lays the twin entrance of Spritsail Tor Cave . Discovered in 1839 whilst quarrying the rock here, remains of Ice-Age animals and two fragments of worked bone suggest that the cave was occupied by Palaeolithic man. Further animal and human bones were also uncovered here, along with fragments of pottery, detailing how the cave later came to be used as for domestic and funerary use during the Roman occupation of the area.
The southern end of the bay gives access, at low tide only to a series of small coves, the largest of which is Broad Pool Bay .
Whiteford (pronounced Witford), its name being corrupted from the Viking word Hvit Fford, is a large expanse of sand (Whiteford Sands), and dune, forest and estuary (Whiteford Burrows). Owned by The National Trust, this peninsula-in-miniature is a Nature Reserve and provides the walker with an excellent opportunity of witnessing how the environment transforms naturally from one habitat to another.
The whole area, however, is quite difficult to access - the nearest cars can get to the site is by using the lane near Cwm Ivy Woods or the road which passes Llanmadoc Church, each a good hours walk away.
Before the estuary was dredged, it is believed that huge stepping stones lay across the divide between Whiteford Point and the coastline of Dyfed, allowing access across the quicksand and mudflats at low tide. These have long been swallowed in the long history of the Burry Estuary, but another causeway, from Whiteford Lighthouse to Burry Port remains partially intact (but totally impossible to follow for any distance).
The three kilometre stretch of sand that curves gently from the cliffs of Broughton Bay towards the poetically isolated Whiteford Lighthouse is one of the quietest spots on the Gower Peninsula . Even during the height of summer, scarcely a dozen people take the hour plus walk required to reach this lonely beach. However, for those intrepid enough to endure the long trek, especially amidst the blaze of an August sun, lies the reward of a wild and virtually empty expanse of glittering sand, enclosed from the rest of the world by the tide and the high dune systems of Whiteford Burrows. In these times of burgeoning tourism, where nearly every beach within the ever encroaching reach of the motor car has become more and more crowded, Whiteford Sands must surely be a treasured find indeed.
Whilst the bay now basks in its quiet reputation, the history of Whiteford Sands proves that its past is a dark and savage one. With the dangerous estuarine currents of the Burry Estuary running against the Atlantic Ocean to the west, the area was treacherous to shipping and many of sea vessels have been wrecked on this lonely and wild beach (some of these are still visible to this day). January 1868, for example, found the entire beach strewn with the dead bodies and wreckage of no less than sixteen coal-laden ships, wrecked here after only the shortest of voyages from Llanelli after a sudden ground swell left them floundering off the point of Whiteford. The bodies of the crew from all sixteen vessels were laid to rest locally in the neighbouring graveyards of Llangennith Church and Llanmadoc Church , from which there is a ghost story linked to the incident.
A number of whales have also been washed ashore here. In the 1700's quite a large whale was discovered on the sands, the locals - ever ready to find gain amongst whatever the sea gave up to them - made quite a considerable sum of money from selling the oil they reaped from its body. 1934 also brought a school of twelve small whales to the beach. Little could be done to aid the struggling animals and their bodies eventually had to be buried on the bay.
During World War II, the Burry Estuary was used by the army as a shelling and mining range, and Whiteford Sands, especially, is notorious for harbouring dangerous vestiges of those more turbulent years. From time to time unexploded bombs have surfaced here, sometimes in great number. The area has been regularly cleared of these weapons, however, and with each passing year, fewer and fewer of these wartime relics remain to alarm the visitor.

| All content Copyright Chris Elphick 2007 |